Friday, March 13, 2009
Hazard Grille, Enfield, CT March 2009
Service: A-
Joanne and Amy write:
In the middle of an overdeveloped area of strip malls and chain restaurants in Enfield, next door to the Olive Garden, in a building that used to house a Red Lobster, on Hazard Ave, is an independently owned restaurant called the Hazard Grille. Being independently owned is enough of a draw to get me to try it; put it close to home, and I’m bound to become a regular, especially if the service is good. And it is. That being said, I do stop in fairly regularly for a burger, or a salad, or happy hour. Yet in all the times I’ve been, I’ve never ordered a dinner entrée, so that was the plan. Meet Amy for happy hour, start with that menu, and move on to dinner.
We arrived at 4, just as their Happy Hour—which includes drink specials and specially priced appetizers—began. Neither Amy nor I cared enough for the 4 dollar wine offering, so we ordered a very reasonably priced bottle of California Cabernet Sauvignon instead. To start our food fest, we ordered mussels and Edna’s bread.
The pound or so of P.E.I. mussels came steaming hot in a garlicky white wine and lemon sauce, garnished with leeks. The mussels were plump and tasty, and begged to be dipped into the sauce, which I did with every one. The Edna’s bread, which my mother remembers from The Log Cabin in Holyoke, MA (apparently, the owners met working there as teenagers), is a must-order in my opinion. The crusty loaf has at its center a layer of creamy bleu cheese and is topped with a sprinkling of parmesan that crisps when it bakes. It’s buttery, cheesy, soft and crunchy, and way better than any garlic bread I’ve ever had.
Though not a regular, per se, I have been to the Hazard Grille on a couple of occasions, and like Joanne, have yet to try an entrée. Part of the reason is that the Happy Hour offering of half-price appetizers from 4 to 6 p.m. is too good to pass up, and I’m often full after a couple of those. That said, I’m somewhat put off by the entrees as they seem a bit too fussy, like the chefs are trying to do too much with each dish. Take for example the Flat Iron Steak entrée. It’s described as “teriyaki marinated steak served over garlic mashed potatoes with a horseradish Dijon sauce and topped with sautéed onions and mushrooms.” It gives me a headache to think of all those flavors on one plate. So, while I wanted something else after our appetizers, I ended up simply ordering the French Onion Soup. It was a delicious and satisfying crock of caramelized onions served in a rich, beefy stock and topped with the traditional crouton and not-so-traditional but yummy nonetheless Havarti cheese.
I ended up ordering my standby burger, served on a bulkie roll with lettuce and tomato and a side of crispy fries. As always, it was juicy and flavorful, but too big to eat after the mussels and "garlic" bread—especially since we wanted to leave room for dessert. But nothing grabbed us from the dessert menu (here again, a little too much going on, e.g., Devil’s Food Red Velvet cake – which is it?) so Amy trusted me to order bartender Kara’s specialty espresso martinis. They rock. It’s hard to find a martini anywhere for 8 dollars these days; this one is worth every penny. Vanilla vodka, Kahlua, crème de cacao, shaken with a shot of espresso make this martini a perfect end to a meal, and a perfect reason to come back again.
Well, that, the consistently good service, and the fact that we still haven’t tried any entrées.
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
ON20, Hartford, CT February 2009
Service: A+
Joanne and Amy write:
In our next lives, we'd like to be ladies who lunch...or at least women who get to enjoy lunch out more often, so our decision to try ON20 during our February vacation was perfect. ON20, located on the 20th floor of 1 State St in Hartford, which formerly housed the Polytechnic Club, is a lunch-only restaurant, but more importantly, it is an experience.
We entered the sparse lobby and walked up two half-flights of stairs to reach the bank of elevators. A sign advised us to enter the number of our floor and then flashed a letter indicating which elevator would be coming for us. When we reached the 20th floor, we saw the doors to the restaurant that were marked only by a small sign. The maitre d', a friendly, welcoming gentleman, took our coats and led us to our table by the window where we took in the view of Hartford and the Connecticut River. Too bad it was a gray February afternoon, and that there were so few diners in this grand dining room.
Our table was exquisitely set with beautiful china chargers, sparkling glassware and silverware, and two sets of miniature salt and pepper shakers. The maitre d' returned to hand us menus. Surprisingly, there was no wine list, but he asked, "Red or white?" and then verbally listed the wines available by the varietal rather than by the vineyard. A pleasant female server poured our water and asked whether we had any food allergies or time constraints, something we thought was a nice touch.
Menu options at lunch include a power business lunch, a three course prix fixe, and a tasting lunch. All options tout local and seasonal ingredients, something for which the chef is known. There were also some additions to the menu, most of which involved fish. Amy had decided in advance to try three courses, and I waffled--until the last moment--between the power lunch and the three course menu. In the end I went with two courses from the business lunch menu and wished I had, like Amy, thrown caution to the wind and gone for the prix fixe. But we're getting ahead of ourselves. One course, one mouthful at a time.
The server delivered an amuse bouche of Coquilles St. Jacques, then a bread basket including sourdough rolls that were a bit dry, and slices of rye that had a hint of molasses. The scallop was what it should be - a tasty one-bite morsel topped with crunchy Parmesan that whetted our appetites. Next, we enjoyed our appetizers and the accompaniment of white wine that was delivered compliments of the chef. I had ordered mussels in a garlicky yellow saffron sauce. There were plenty of them to share, and they were tender and delicious. The sauce was enhanced by bits of tarragon and was perfect for dipping the toast points. The finger bowl with warm water and lemon wedge and fresh linen napkin for wiping, delivered after I finished, was another nice touch.
I sampled Amy's mussels while I enjoyed a salad of delicate greens, bleu cheese, pears, and toasted walnuts. The salad was lightly (that is, perfectly) dressed with a maple balsamic vinaigrette. The blue cheese was decadently creamy and not overly pungent. The walnuts were candied and provided a sweetness and crunch that brought the salad together.
My burger, unfortunately, was less than memorable. In fact, it was disappointing. While it was cooked as I had asked, medium, it was pink in the center but not a bit juicy. As I ate it, not a drip of the deliciousness I seek in a burger landed on the plate or the sweet brioche roll or my chin. The pomme frites were quite good, however, and saved the course for me. Well, the pomme frites and tastes of Amy's cassoulet.
I had the suckling pig cassoulet, which was to die for. It was slightly deconstructed, served as a cast iron crock of flavorful upscale pork and beans topped with browned seasoned bread crumbs, with a perfectly grilled piece of pork and two spicy rabbit sausages, served on the side. I enjoyed it very much.
We ordered espresso and with it, received a second amuse - chocolate truffle coins with a piece of caramelized sugar. The maitre d' rolled over a dessert cart covered in treats including succulent blackberries, strawberries and raspberries, fresh pineapple chunks, and a variety of cakes and tarts. I chose a slice of flourless chocolate cake that was light and airy and a perfect end to the meal. Joanne received a "sympathy" beignet since dessert was not included with her lunch and she chose not to order one a la carte. Finally, a complimentary plate full of nickel-size cookies and truffles to enjoy with our second espresso was delivered.
We shared this sampling of bite size cookies--whose flavors included peanut butter, almond, and chocolate-- as we drank our espressos and I sipped an amaretto, reveling in the fact that a bell or PA message wouldn't beckon us back to class. It certainly was a treat, and an extravagance.
With overpriced wine, and espressos, and the 20 percent tip built in as a "service charge"(albeit well-deserved), our total bill was high. Given my share of the tab, which I have paid for a satisfying dinner for two, and the fact that I have had a better burger for 10 dollars, I might keep this at a once in a lifetime experience. Amy, I imagine, will return, perhaps to share the experience with her husband.
Indeed, ON20 does not offer a typical lunch, but a dining experience that happens to take place during the afternoon. Although I agree the wine was overpriced, as in most restaurants these days, I thought the $35 cost for the three-course menu was appropriate. Taking that into consideration, as well as the exceptional service and the many special touches found only at fine dining locations, I highly recommend ON20 as a destination for a luxurious lunch, for ladies and gentlemen alike.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Sawadee Thai Cuisine, South Windsor, CT February 2009
Service: A
Amy and Joanne write:
"Sawadee" is Thai for the greeting "Hello." It is a warm welcome in the language as much as it is the feeling you get when you enter the small, almost hidden, Thai restaurant in South Windsor by the same name. I have visited Sawadee quite a few times since it opened a few years ago, and have always felt welcomed by the hospitable staff and comfortable interior. Good-luck elephants and Hindu goddesses adorn the walls, and current magazines are available for those waiting for take-out.
The menu offers traditional Thai dishes including a variety of noodles, curries, and fried rices made with the customer's choice of protein (chicken, beef, tofu, seafood). Duck is also on the menu, and that is one of my absolute favorite foods, so I always get the same thing when I go here: the Panang Duck, which is a crispy 1/4 duck served with green beans and peas in a light but spicy coconut-based curry sauce. Like most entrees, it is served with steamed white rice. Since I was visiting with Joanne, I thought I'd try something different...at least in the form of appetizers to share.
After living several years in Boston I have often lamented the lack of ethnic food (especially Thai) in my area of Connecticut, so I was eager to get turned on to a Thai restaurant close enough to home with votes of approval from Amy and Chris as well as a couple of other friends who live close by Sawadee. After looking at the menu on line, in preparation for our Thai adventure, Amy agreed to share my appetizer choices of fresh spring rolls and angel shrimp (which she told me, after I suggested them, is one of her favorites). Well, at least one appetizer would be different for her.
Shortly after we were seated, our water glasses were filled with ice cold water flavored with a hint of lime, and our orders were taken. A few minutes later, our glasses of wine were delivered, and our spring rolls arrived a moment after that. The presentation was exquisite--four half rolls standing in the center of a plate, garnished with shredded carrots and cilantro sprigs, served with a small ramekin of spicy peanut sauce. The rice paper was moist and the rolls were indeed fresh and crispy -- filled with sushi rice, shredded carrots, cilantro and tofu. The sauce, served with a healthy dash of crushed peanuts, had a touch of coconut that added to its flavor.
When we were not quite done with our spring rolls, our angel shrimp arrived. Five pieces of shrimp, tails on and exposed, bodies in perfectly brown and crunchy fried wrappers, were fanned around a small dish of dipping sauce. After my first bite of shrimp, dipped in the thin but tasty plum sauce with flecks of red pepper, I understood why it's one of Amy's favorites. As we finished our appetizers I wanted to make more appear, but it worked just as well that our dinners were presented instead.
The panang duck was as delicious as always. The duck was deboned for ease of eating and had a dark brown crispy skin. It was tossed with bright green peas and string beans, as well as julienned kaffir leaves that offered a flavor note of lime. Surrounding all of these was an orange-red coconut-curry sauce that was spicy enough to give me the sniffles, but sweet enough to pour over my sticky white rice. I. Love. This. Dish.
My chicken dish--Pra Ram-- was a beautiful plate of chicken breast pieces pounded thin and served with carrots; bite size, vibrant broccoli florets arranged around the perimeter; and--hidden underneath--bok choy; all tossed in a creamy peanut sauce. The portion was generous, the chicken was tender, and the vegetables still had a nice bite. Most importantly, the flavor was what my taste buds desired--peanut sauce with just the right hint of heat. I was happy to have sauce left on the plate to dress my sticky rice. I love peanut sauce the way Amy loves duck, and this is a dish I would order again. Meaning I'd come here again to dine or take out.
Our excellent food was accompanied by excellent service. Our young server was attentive and courteous, refilling water glasses as needed and checking on satisfaction with every course. She smiled often, and offered polite words in a quiet voice.
For great Thai food "East of the River," Sawadee is a welcome treasure.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Outback Steakhouse, Enfield, CT January 2009
Service: B
Joanne and Amy write:
If you're looking for a slow food experience, Outback Steakhouse, like any other family restaurant chain, is not the place to go. Unless you pretend you don't know what you want for an entree while you enjoy your starter. (We know. We've done this to delay the delivery of a steak when we're only three bites into a salad.) If, on the other hand, you're looking for a reasonably priced and consistently good steak, we would both recommend the "Outback Special." Since we gave another restaurant a chance to compete, we thought it only right to take our gradebooks to what we consider the standard against which we measured.
True to form I ordered an Outback special, and since I hadn't had steak in a while (2 weeks!), I decided to splurge on the 9 oz (medium, please) for $14.95. All dinners are served with a choice of two sides, and--as always--I chose to start with a house salad and have green beans to accompany my steak. Amy did the same, only she exercised some restraint and ordered a 6 oz. (medium rare) for $9.99. Oh, and since we were in the mood to take our time and a breath between courses, we did stall on ordering our steaks until we were eating bread and our salads.
The honey-wheat bread came out warm but not quite as toasty as I would have liked, and while I thought the butter was lacking its usual sweetness, Joanne didn't notice a difference. Perhaps I was being overly critical after grading exams like a madwoman in a rush to get grades in on time. The chilled salads were fresh and crisp with a mix of iceberg and romaine lettuce, cucumber chunks, sliced red onion, juicy--room temperature--grape tomatoes, crunchy cheese-flavored croutons, shredded cheddar and sharp chunky bleu cheese. In other words, they were a great meal starter.
Shortly after we devoured the salads, our entrees arrived. Both perfectly grilled steaks were accompanied by bright green, crisp, French-style green beans that had been tossed in a nutty-flavored butter. The steaks were cooked the way we had ordered them, were juicy and fork-tender, and had that delightful blend of seasonings for which Outback is known. Even the 6-oz. was satisfying, and neither Joanne nor I had room for dessert, although the new miniature-sized sampler sweets sounded tempting. For those not into red meat, there is a wide variety of other menu choices including seasonal specials, entree salads, and several chicken and fish dishes.
We were there on the early side of dinner, around 5, when only one bartender was on-- taking care of both bar customers and doing service bar for customers seated in the dining room. Because the restaurant was not particularly busy she managed just fine, but had there been more customers to serve and satisfy, we probably would have felt neglected. That is to say the service was good, not stellar, but certainly worth 20 percent.
The steak dinners at Outback really are a great value. In this economy the pomp and circumstance (and price tags) of high end steak houses may have to take a back seat to a good beef bargain. Whether high end is never your style, or you're watching your wallet, "going Outback" is sure to satisfy.
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Uno's Chicago Grill, Manchester, CT January 2009
Service: A-
Amy and Joanne write:
Happy New Year from Joanne and Amy!
For our first excursion of the new year, we chose Uno's Chicago Grill, or what used to be known as "Pizzeria Uno," or even simply, "Uno's." This evening we went to the one located in Manchester to see a man about a coupon. We all know that January, or what we like to call "Holiday Rehab," is a good time for a great deal, which is what we got via email from UCG: Buy one entree and get a free 6-oz. sirloin steak meal. Works for us.
Even though we were sans coupon, we mentioned the "Insiders" deal to the bartender who quickly produced a reasonable facsimile. Upon questioning, she touted the virtues of the new steak deal and suggested we order it medium or medium-rare (apparently to reduce shrinkage...). We got comfortable, started shelling the pre-appetizer peanuts, ordered our wine and gave the bartender the particulars of our entrees.
Today was not a day to restrict red meat intake, so we both chose the 6 oz. sirloin dinner, with a choice of two sides. We both chose to start with salads; to accompany our steaks, I ordered roasted vegetables, Amy ordered steamed.
The salads were mediocre at best. Think bagged lettuce complete with dry shredded carrots. Add one red onion ring, a couple coins of cucumber, a quarter wintry-pale tomato and croutons made from leftover bread that could have used another 5 minutes on 350 degrees, and there you have it. Unfortunately, the blue cheese dressing (oh, yeah, no skimping on salad dressing today either--midterms are coming up and we have a professional development workshop to sit through tomorrow afternoon!) was not able to redeem the salad. There was little authentic blue cheese flavor so the tanginess was out of place-- more likely from buttermilk than blue cheese. The blue cheese hurt my tongue.
The vegetables were weak, too. Roasted or steamed (we each ordered one kind), they both included bell peppers which overtook the flavor of all the other vegetables present. In fact, when our plates were placed in front of us, that was the predominant aroma: bell peppers.
Fortunately, the steak, which was the main attraction, delivered. Though there was little difference between mine (medium) and Amy's (medium rare), they were both juicy and tender and tasty, seasoned well. We enjoyed our steaks as well as the freshly baked Parmesan-dusted bread sticks that filled any leftover space in our stomachs not filled by those veggies.
Sitting at the bar, by definition, means your server will be the bartender, and today, she was one who recognized us from previous happy hours. She was attentive without hovering, familiar without creepiness, and honest without condescension. While complimenting our accessories, she smiled often and made us feel welcome. She enthusiastically recommended the steaks and willingly over poured our wines. The "minus" attached to the "A" comes from the fact that she left us without silverware, took a stress-inducing phone call in front of us, and at one point, left the bar (and our empty wine glasses!) unattended for several minutes. We have high standards!
Our server came closer to meeting our standards than the food did. The 6 ounce piece of meat was okay, but steak dinner was disappointing--definitely not as good as one served at one of our similarly priced restaurant favorites. But given that we were at what used to be a pizza joint, it definitely gets passing grades. And let's not forget, we had a coupon.
Bottom line: print a coupon and we will come.
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Bertucci's, Manchester, CT December 2008 Grade: C-
Ah, the holidays: overly ambitious social calendars, rapidly depleting check book balances and suburban shopping mall gridlock more typical of midtown Manhattan than Manchester. Clearly, venturing toward said area at this point--two days before Christmas-- is an exercise in frustration and should be avoided at all costs...Unless, of course, you are Amy or me, who might even brave a New England blizzard and gridlock for a holiday wine toast and to try a new restaurant, which is why we went to Bertucci's yesterday at the Buckland Hills Mall.
I got there first and ordered a half carafe of Sangiovese. At $11.50 this was a bargain for a 2+ glasses of decent wine. When Amy arrived a few minutes later, she did the same. I passed her the menu and told her she could decide on the pizza we would share.
We ordered "The Sporkie," a traditional crust pizza baked in a brick oven and topped with sweet Italian sausage, tomato sauce, and ricotta and mozzarella cheeses. We chose the large over the individual size, and when it arrived, Joanne and I just looked at each other, wondering how we were going to eat it all. It was much larger than we expected, but we'd just take some home after we finished. The menu had promised a "light, crispy crust," and while it was tasty, I found it to be thicker and more chewy than I would have liked. The tomato sauce was sweet as was the crumbled sausage. The ricotta seemed to have been placed in tablespoonfuls randomly around the pizza and was not spread well, but it imparted a creaminess to those bites that contained it. We each had two slices and were each able to take two home for a midnight, or perhaps next-morning snack.
Our service fell apart when our server, whose name we learned only when we asked, had given us our check before we were done with our dining experience. It was our Christmas celebration, after all, and we wanted a little liquid something for dessert. However, once she had packed up our leftover pizza, she put our check firmly on the bartop. I turned to Joanne to say, "I guess we're done," at the same time as she said, "Is she rushing us out of here or what?" We thought about leaving and having our dessert somewhere else, but couldn't face attempting to park again. We asked for the menu again, and taking our chances with more bad service from the bartender, ordered limoncello martinis. As we sipped the well-made drinks, we toasted the holidays and exchanged our gifts, both of us laughing at the coincidence of giving each other cookbooks. It was at this inopportune point that the server attempted to engage us in conversation. Alas, we were no longer interested.
Our experience at Bertucci's is exactly why we will begin, in 2009, giving separate grades for food and service. Our pizza and wine earned an admirable-for-a-chain-restaurant B. Our service, on the other hand, plummeted from a C to an F when our server held up our respectable tip (especially for her quality of service) to her sidekick and said "OMG," while we were putting on our coats, both within earshot and eyeshot...
Oh, yes, she did.
Saturday, December 6, 2008
Max Amore, Glastonbury, CT December 2008 Grade: B+
Believe it or not, Amy and I are bargain hunters and coupon clippers. We even share coupons so they don't go to waste. Like back in the day when kids traded baseball cards, Amy and I spread out our spoils and trade coupons. You have 20 percent off Bed and Bath? I've got buy-one-get-one at Bath and Body! Of course the often more interesting offers are the free appetizer or BOGO entree deals we come across. How lucky for us that our dinner last night came about because of a deal we didn't even go looking for. Rather, it fell in our laps. Well, in our email boxes--as had the Restaurant Week advertisement that lead us to Max's Oyster Bar a couple of weeks ago. In this case, on Monday after school, we both got an email about the Max Restaurant Group Prix Fixe dinners this week. 3 courses for $24.95. Yay, us! This time, we chose the more suburban Max Amore, in Glastonbury. This time we were also a little more indecisive about what to order, despite seeing the menu in advance.
The options for first course were Caesar salad or soup. I chose the Caesar salad. While we waited, I picked at dish of marinated olives which were quite fruity and flavorful (Amy doesn't like olives, so I didn't have to share). We were also served a basket of two types of bread and a head of roasted garlic. I prepared a slab of foccacia with garlic and dipped in some olive oil that was on the table and things were looking promising. Then my salad arrived. At first glance it looked like a decent Caesar, but once I started, was a bit disappointed. Perhaps the most disappointing detail was that there were no Parmesan shaves or shingles in sight, not even any matchstick shreds. Rather, the salad was dressed with grated Parmesan that was unable to temper the slightly too pungent anchovy and garlic dressing. Finally, the croutons were more stale than crispy. So we were off to a tepid start. Well, figuratively, but Amy can tell you about that.
I was hungry and couldn't wait to dig into the cup of Tuscan white bean and pancetta soup I ordered to start. I should have waited, because it was so hot that I wished I had an asbestos lining in my mouth. When it cooled down enough for me to actually taste it, it had good white bean flavor with a hint of smokiness. It also had a hearty mix of small diced carrots, celery and pancetta that was all the more sublime when I dipped the country-style Italian bread into it. A bowl of this soup with that bread would have made for an amazing meal in itself.
I didn't finish the soup because I was very much looking forward to my interesting entree of "Gobetti con Anatra," described as pasta with duck confit, roasted butternut squash, fresh sage, and sweet potato cream. The waiter placed the dish in front of me and the smell of spices (was it the nutmeg? maybe the cinnamon?) made my mouth water. Again, I couldn't wait to dig in. This dish had the perfect balance of sweet and savory: sweetness from the squash, spices and cream sauce; savory from the duck and the sage. It also had a skillful blend of textures, with the al dente pasta mixed with no-too-firm squash and fork-tender duck. This was the ultimate duck pasta dish, and the best, most unique one I've had in a long time.
I should have gone with my initial instinct and ordered the chicken parmigiana rather than be dissuaded from doing so by the server, who was "sick of serving chicken." That is to say, Amy won. In that restaurant game of sampling each other's dinners, deciding whose is best, and coveting another meal: Amy won. My salmon dish was...er...odd. The fish itself was good and cooked well, but the preparation had a disconnect. The polenta on which the salmon was artfully placed looked and tasted more like scrambled eggs than polenta. The plum tomato sauce resembled and tasted more like a helping of canned, diced tomatoes, and frankly--even if it was a great sauce and my palate missed that--didn't seem to compliment the salmon. The leek and roasted pepper tapenade was a few juliennes of leeks and peppers that tasted mostly like roasted peppers. I pushed them off to the side with the tomatoes and ate the 5 haricot verts that sat between the polenta and fish. I couldn't help but long for the wonderful preparation of salmon I had at Max's Oyster Bar a couple of weeks ago. But honestly, if all I had was the piece of salmon and a full helping of green beans I would have been more content. At least there was dessert.
We wised up this visit and got one of each of the two dessert choices: creme bruciata (which is Italian for creme brulee), and flourless chocolate cake, so we could taste them both. The creme tasted as good as the one we had at Oyster Bar - it was chilled and creamy and topped with that delightful burnt sugar. Unfortunately, the presentation was lacking, as the dish sat atop the raspberry sauce which ended up smudged and hidden rather than acting as an enhancement. The tiny "Nilla-wafer" sandwich cookie accompaniment was dry and tasteless. The flourless cake had the consistency of a not-quite cooked brownie, which is to say, it was awesome. It was topped with a deep chocolate ganache that was countered with an equally tasty Tahitian-vanilla gelato that packed a powerful punch of flavor by itself.
For Amy it was a hit, for me a miss, but overall it was a good dinner experience. Our service was good (although the server was flat) and with wine and tip, we had three courses at this high-caliber restaurant for $60 apiece. While we acknowledge this is not cheap, it's actually a great deal in a place where entrees alone range from $15.95 to $31.95. To the Max Restaurant Group we can only say, keep doing what you're doing!